Cat spraying: why it happens and what helps

What spraying looks like

Spraying is when a cat backs up to a wall, door or piece of furniture, lifts a quivering tail and squirts a small amount of urine. It usually lands on upright surfaces. It is a way of leaving a scent message, not a toilet accident.

A cat squatting and leaving a larger puddle on the floor, bed or a pile of washing is a different thing. That is more often linked to a health problem or to something the cat dislikes about the litter tray.

Start with the vet

Before anything else, book a vet visit. Urinary tract problems, bladder inflammation, kidney issues, pain and other conditions can all cause a cat to wee outside the tray, and some of them are urgent. A male cat straining in the tray and passing little or no urine needs a vet the same day.

Your vet can also talk about desexing if your cat is not desexed. It greatly reduces spraying for many cats, especially when done early, although a cat who has sprayed for a long time may keep some of the habit.

Why cats spray

Once health problems are ruled out, spraying is usually about feeling unsettled. Common triggers include:

• Another cat, either in the house or seen through the window
• A new baby, partner, housemate or pet
• Moving house, renovating or new furniture
• Changes in routine, like longer hours away
• Tension over shared resources such as food, water, beds and trays

Clean it properly

Cats go back to spots that still smell like them, even when we can no longer smell anything.

• Blot up what you can with paper towel.
• Use an enzyme cleaner made for pet urine, following the label.
• Avoid ammonia based cleaners. Urine contains ammonia, so they can make the spot more interesting.
• Test cleaners on a hidden patch of fabric or carpet first.
• A UV torch can help you find old marks you have missed.

Please skip the "natural" deterrents you may see online. Citrus, lavender, mint, tea tree and other essential oils can be toxic to cats, whether in a diffuser, a spray or a sachet. Scented plug-ins are best avoided too.

Lower the stress

These steps are simple, and together they often make a real difference:

• Enough trays. A common rule of thumb is one tray per cat plus one extra, in different quiet spots, not all in the same room.
• Keep trays clean. Scoop daily and wash trays regularly with mild, unscented soap.
• Spread out resources. Food, water, beds and scratching posts in several places mean cats do not have to cross paths to use them.
• Block the view. If a neighbourhood cat is the trigger, frosting film on the lower part of a window can help.
• Give them height and hiding spots. Shelves, cat trees and boxes let a worried cat feel safer.
• Keep a routine. Regular feeding and play times are reassuring.
• Play every day. A couple of short play sessions with a wand toy help burn off tension.

Synthetic feline pheromone diffusers are designed to be used around cats and some households find them helpful. Ask your vet whether one is worth trying.

A hypothetical example

Imagine a two-cat household where the older cat starts spraying the back door after a new cat moves in next door. A vet check comes back clear. The owners clean the door with an enzyme cleaner, put frosting film on the low glass, add a third tray, and play with both cats each evening. Over several weeks the marking becomes less frequent. That is a typical pattern, though every home is different.

Never punish

Yelling, rubbing a cat's nose in it or spraying them with water makes them more anxious, and anxiety is usually what drives spraying. It can also make them wary of you.

When to get more help

If spraying continues after a clear vet check and a few weeks of changes, ask your vet about a referral to a veterinary behaviourist. Some cats need a tailored plan, and sometimes medication, to feel settled.

This article is general information, not veterinary advice.